DIY 3-Panel Mermaid Skirt Pt.1 (Free pattern) for belly dancers

I shared this 5-panel mermaid skirt tutorial years ago, and it has been one of the most popular tutorials at Sparkly Belly. And since I published it, so many of you have requested a simpler, 3-panel mermaid skirt. Thank you! 

So today I’m thrilled to share with you my 3-panel mermaid skirt over the next 2 posts, more straightforward than the previous version, and updated with a more secure waistband option (but no muffin top), and a higher waist option. Let’s get started!

Click here to get the FREE MERMAID SKIRT CALCULATOR!

To make this DIY 3 panel mermaid skirt, you need:

Pattern paper – You need a large piece of paper, about 1m x 1.8m (40in x 70in). You can use any type of paper, like craft paper or leftover wrapping paper taped together.

Pattern paper measurements for the 3-panel mermaid skirt

Stretch fabric – You need about 3 times your skirt length plus 15cm (6in)  to make this skirt. Make sure your fabric is at least 2 way stretch, meaning the fabric stretches in 2 directions. 

Stretch fabric measurements for a 3-panel mermaid skirt
2-way stretch fabric for a 3-panel mermaid skirt

Matching color thread

How to Make a 3-Panel Mermaid Skirt Pattern

Take measurements

To make this mermaid skirt and make sure it fits you well, take these measurements.

  1. Belt line – This is where you want the waistband of your skirt to sit. Measure the circumference.
  2. Hipline – This is the fullest part of your hips. 
Measurements for a 3-panel mermaid skirt

If you want to make a high-waisted mermaid skirt, take a measurement at your waistline as well.

High waisted measurement for a 3-panel mermaid skirt

Then, on the back side of your body, take measurements:

  1. Distance between the belt line and the hipline
  2. Distance between the hipline and thighs – this is right below your hips
  3. Distance between thighs and 10cm (4in) above knees
  4. Distance between 10cm (4in) above knees and the floor

If you’re making a high waisted version, also measure the distance between the waistline and belt line.

Back side measurements for a 3-panel mermaid skirt

Once you record these measurements, let’s move on and make a pattern!

3-Panel mermaid skirt pattern drafting

Just like the 5 panel mermaid skirt, I wanted to keep this mermaid skirt pattern simple. So we’ll just make 1 pattern, and we’ll be sewing 3 identical panels together to make this skirt.

A 3-panel mermaid skirt pattern

Now there’s a bit of calculation we need to do. If you want to skip the calculation part or double check your math, you can get a FREE mermaid skirt calculator here!

Take your belt line measurement. Divide it by 7.2, and add 1cm (3/8in). This is your belt line number for pattern making. 

Belt line measurement for a 3-panel mermaid skirt

We divide the original measurement by 7.2, which is a simplified way of saying, we divide it by 1.2 (which is the stretch ratio), then by 3 (because we’re making 3 panels), then by 2 (because we’re using this number to make a half of a panel). Then we add a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance.

Break down of math for a 3-panel mermaid skirt

Do the same calculation for your waistline measurement if you have, and your hipline measurement, and we’ll use these numbers, not the original measurements, when we make the pattern. Again, you can get the free calculator here.

Pattern making measurements for a 3-panel mermaid skirt

So take your pattern paper, and first, fold your pattern paper in half.

Fold pattern paper in half for a 3-panel mermaid skirt

Pick a point at the top of the fold. And if you’re making a high-waisted skirt, measure your waistline number that you just calculated. If you’re making a low-rise version, measure your belt line number you just calculated.

Point at top of fold of a 3-panel mermaid skirt
Low rise version of a 3-panel mermaid skirt

Back to the fold, and measure down 2.5cm (1in) from the first point. And measure across the same number as above.

measure down one inch on a 3-panel mermaid skirt
Measure across the same number for a 3-panel mermaid skirt

Now the high waisted version only, measure the distance between the waistline and beltline from the last point on the fold, and measure your beltline number horizontally from there. Make a mark.

High waisted version measure distance for a 3-panel mermaid skirt
High waisted version measure belt line of a 3-panel mermaid skirt

From here, the steps are the same for both high waist and low rise.

From the last point on the fold, measure the distance between belt line and hip line, and from there, measure your hip line number. 

Measure distance from belt line to hip line on a 3-panel mermaid skirt
Measure hip line of a 3-panel mermaid skirt

Back to the fold, and measure the distance between the hip line and thighs from the last point, and measure your hip line number minus 1cm (3/8in).

Measure hip line to thighs on a 3-panel mermaid skirt
Measure hip line minus one cm of a 3-panel mermaid skirt

At the fold, measure the distance between the thighs and 10cm (4in) above knees, and measure the same number as above, which is your hip line minus 1cm (3/8in).

Thighs to 10 cm above the knees measurement of a 3-panel mermaid skirt
Measure hip line minus one cm of a 3-panel mermaid skirt

At the fold, measure the distance between 10cm (4in) above knees and the floor plus 1cm (3/8in), and from there, measure your hip line number times 5. Make a mark. 

Measurement for knees to floor of a 3-panel mermaid skirt
Hip line times 5 of a 3-panel mermaid skirt

Then connect this mark and the last hip line minus 1cm (3/8in) mark up here. 

Connect this mark on a 3-panel mermaid skirt
Connect this mark of a 3-panel mermaid skirt

From there, measure the distance between 10cm (4in) above knees and floor plus 1cm (3/8in) along the line.

Measure distance above knees for a 3-panel mermaid skirt

Pivot your ruler from there, marking the same measurement all the way until you reach the bottom. Connect the dots with a smooth curve. By doing this, you can make sure this flared part is the same length as the rest of the skirt.

Pivot your ruler and mark for a 3-panel mermaid skirt
Connect the dots by a smooth curve for a 3-panel mermaid skirt

Now connect all the dots. I use 10cm (4in) above knees as where we start the flare, and this is something I have never changed in years. By starting the flare above the knee level, you can create a balanced look for many body types. But if you feel like experimenting with where to start the flare, go for it! 

10 cm above the knees starts the flare of a 3-panel mermaid skirt

At the side edge, smooth out where lines meet, so it’s a nicely curved line.

Create a nicely curved line for a 3-panel mermaid skirt

Cut along the outline with both layers together, and now you have your very own 3-panel mermaid skirt pattern!

Cut out the pattern of your 3-panel mermaid skirt
Unfolded pattern for your 3-panel mermaid skirt

Once you have the numbers ready, the pattern-making section is pretty straightforward. Again, you can get the free calculator here and speed up the process 😉

And in Part 2, I’ll share with you how to cut the panels and assemble the skirt together. I can’t wait!

Ho to cut the panels of a 3-panel mermaid skirt
How to assemble the 3-panel mermaid skirt

But before you move on to Part 2, sign up for the Sparkly Belly newsletter below so you can get future DIY costume tutorials in your inbox!

Click here to sign up for the Sparkly Belly newsletter!

And if you like mermaid skirts, I have a brand new on more elaborate mermaid skirt designs featuring these beautiful, flowy layers. If you want to make your own, learn more here!

Sparklybelly.com/mermaid

Click here to learn & make mermaid skirts like these!

Hope you liked this Part 1 of the 3-panel belly dance mermaid skirt tutorial, and if you did, please share this post with your dancer and costumer friends!

Part 1 of the 3-panel belly dance mermaid skirt tutorial

Again, get the free calculator↓↓↓

Click here to get the FREE MERMAID SKIRT CALCULATOR!

And here’s Part 2 (sewing) of DIY 3-Panel Mermaid Skirt!

Thanks for reading, and keep sparkling!

P.S. Pin this image on your skirt board and share!

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