DIY Custom-Fit Ruched Mermaid Skirt – Beginner Sewing!

one afternoon ruched mermaid skirt

Have you ever put on a costume that made you feel amazing? Let’s create that feeling together with this DIY trendy ruched mermaid skirt made just for you!

Let’s get started!

Get the FREE calculator from here!

To make this ruched mermaid skirt, you need these materials. 

  • Pattern paper – You can use any type of paper, like craft paper or leftover wrapping paper taped together.
  • Stretch fabric – 2.5m/yd (If you’re tall or want a longer skirt, 3m/3yd)
  • 1cm (3/8in) wide elastic – one that recovers well (meaning when you stretch the elastic, it goes back to its original length right away.)
  • Matching color thread
Materials needed for a ruched mermaid skirt

How to Make DIY Ruched Mermaid Skirt

Step 1. Take measurements

First, we’ll take the measurements we need. 

  • Beltline – This is where you want the waistband of your skirt to sit. Measure the circumference.
  • Hipline – This is the fullest part of your hips.

Then, on the back side of your body, measure these distances:

  • From the belt line to the hipline
  • From the hipline to the thighs – this is right below your hips
  • From the thighs to the knees
  • From the knees to the floor
Backside areas for measurement for a ruched mermaid skirt

Step 2. Make Your Ruched Mermaid Skirt Pattern

Alright, let’s make a custom pattern for your ruched mermaid skirt.

First, fold your pattern paper in half, and pick a point on the fold at the top of the paper. Draw a horizontal line.

Beltline measurement for a ruched mermaid skirt

Take your belt line measurement and divide it by 4.8. If you want to double-check your math or skip any calculation, you can get a free calculator below!

Get the FREE calculator from here!

So measure this number from the fold and mark it on the horizontal line.

marking on pattern for a ruched mermaid skirt

Next, back to the fold, and measure down 2.5cm (1in) from the first point. And measure across the same number as above.

Measurement for a ruched mermaid skirt pattern

From the last point on the fold, measure the distance from your belt line to the hip line times 2, and draw a horizontal line. 

Beltline to hipline measurements for a ruched mermaid skirt

Now take your hip line measurement and divide it by 4.8. Again use my free calculator below to make the calculations so much easier.

Get the FREE calculator from here.

And measure and mark this number from the fold on the horizontal line.

Hipline measurements and marks for a ruched mermaid skirt

Back to the fold, measure the distance from your hip line to your thighs times 2 from the last point, and measure your hip line number minus 1cm (3/8in).

Hipline to thighs measurement for a ruched mermaid skirt
Hipline to thighs calculation for a ruched mermaid skirt

Now this point is going to be important when we cut the fabric, so draw a triangle or something next to this mark here.

Triangle markings for a ruched mermaid skirt

Back to the fold, measure the distance from the thighs to the knees minus 10cm (4in) from the last point, and measure and mark the same number as above which was your hipline number minus 1cm (3/8in).

Thighs to knees measurements for a ruched mermaid skirt
Thighs to knees calculations for a ruched mermaid skirt

Then from here, measure the distance from the knees to the floor plus 10cm (4in) and draw a horizontal line. From the fold, measure your hipline number times 2 and mark it on this line.

Knees to floor measurements for a ruched mermaid skirt
knees to floor calculations for a ruched mermaid skirt

Connect this point to the mark above.

Connection line for a ruched mermaid skirt

From the top of this line, measure the distance from the knees to the floor plus 10cm (4in) again and make a mark on the line.

Create a hem measurement for a ruched mermaid skirt

Pivot your measuring tape, and mark the same distance again. Pivot again and repeat. Continue until you reach the bottom line. This way we can make sure the skirt has an even hem.

make several marks for a ruched mermaid skirt
pattern with hem marked for a ruched mermaid skirt

And connect the dots with a smooth line.

connection line for the hem for a ruched mermaid skirt

Then connect the rest of the points. And smooth out where the lines meet so there’s no sharp corners.

connecting all points on the pattern for a ruched mermaid skirt
softening the lines on the pattern for a ruched mermaid skirt

Alright, the hardest part of this project is finished! Cut along the outline with both layers together.

Cutting out the pattern for a ruched mermaid skirt

Open it up, and remember the triangle mark? Extend this line and draw another triangle on the other side.

Opening the pattern for a ruched mermaid skirt
Important markings for a ruched mermaid skirt

That’s it, and your ruched mermaid skirt pattern is complete! Let’s cut your fabric now.

Full completed pattern for a ruched mermaid skirt

Step 3. Cut Fabric

First, check the direction of the stretch. If your fabric is a 2-way stretch, check which direction it stretches. If it is a 4-way stretch, check which direction is stretchier.

Place your pattern on your fabric, with the direction of stretch (or the stretchier direction) parallel to the waistband of your pattern.

Direction of stretch for the pattern of a ruched mermaid skirt

Then cut while adding a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance.

Cutting the fabric for a ruched mermaid skirt

And make marks at the triangle marks with a fabric marker.

Mark the fabric using the triangle points from the pattern for a ruched mermaid skirt

Your front panel is ready!

For the back panels, fold the pattern in half and place it on your fabric, so again the direction of stretch is parallel to the waistband of your pattern.

Back panels fabric cut out for a ruched mermaid skirt

Then cut while adding a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance, but on the straight edge of the pattern, stop at this point where you see the last horizontal line.

Cutting out the back panels for a ruched mermaid skirt
Cutting the straight part fo the pattern for a ruched mermaid skirt

I want to add extra flare to the center back of the skirt, so flip the pattern here and line up the horizontal line and the bottom edge of the skirt. Remember, there’s a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance.

Adding the flare to the fabric cutting for a ruched mermaid skirt

Then continue to cut. Of course, you can create a separate back panel pattern so you don’t have to flip your pattern here. This is just a lazier way of doing it.

Now you have a back panel with the added flare. Make sure to make a mark at the triangle mark, and make another mark at the same level on the other edge.

Use the marks on the pattern for a ruched mermaid skirt

Flip the pattern and repeat the process to cut out the other side. Make sure these 2 panels are mirror images of each other.

2 panels mirroring for a ruched mermaid skirt

Alright, now you have 1 front panel and 2 back panels. Let’s start sewing!

All 3 pieces of the fabric cut out for a ruched mermaid skirt

Step 4. Sew Your Ruched Mermaid Skirt!

First, place your back panel’s right sides together, and do a zigzag stitch along the center back seam, which is the straight side. Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance.

Zigzag stitch for the back panel for a ruched mermaid skirt

Then place the front panel and back panels right side together and do a zigzag stitch along the side seams.

Zigzag stitch for the front panel for a ruched mermaid skirt

How to Make Ruching

And it already looks like a skirt except that it’s very long. Now add up your distances from the belt line to the hipline and from the hipline to the thighs. Cut your elastic to this length 3 times.

Cutting out elastic for a ruched mermaid skirt

Now we’re going to create the ruching using the elastic. Let’s try on the center back seam. Take a piece of elastic, place one end 2.5cm (1in) from the edge, and place a pin. 

Measurements for placing elastic for a ruched mermaid skirt
Pinning the top elastic for a ruched mermaid skirt

And pin the other end at the mark you made on the fabric. 

Pinning the bottom of the elastic for a ruched mermaid skirt

Find a midpoint between these points on the skirt and a midpoint on the elastic, match these points together, and place a pin. You can just eyeball the midpoints. 

Pinning the midpoint of the elastic for a ruched mermaid skirt

Now take it to your sewing machine, and start doing a zigzag stitch. Hold the elastic and fabric together with your right fingers and stretch both layers so the elastic lines up with the seam of the skirt. And keep sewing while stretching. You may need to guide the layers by pulling them gently from behind the needle.

Sewing the elastic ruching on a ruched mermaid skirt
Guiding the elastic for a ruched mermaid skirt in the sewing machine

As you can see, this is creating the ruching effect!

Creating the ruching effect for a ruched mermaid skirt

Repeat this process at the side seams.

Both sides of ruching done for a ruched mermaid skirt

Now fold over 2.5cm (1in) from the top edge towards the wrong side and do a zigzag stitch. It’s made to your measurement with stretch fabric, so elastic is optional here. If you prefer to have an elastic waistband, you can do so. I like to avoid muffin top so I skipped the elastic here. 

Creating the waist band for a ruched mermaid skirt

Finally, at the hem, fold 1cm (3/8in) from the edge towards the wrong side and do a zigzag stitch all the way around.

Pinning the hem for a ruched mermaid skirt
Finished zig zag stitch hem for a ruched mermaid skirt

And your ruched mermaid skirt is complete! The ruched part is so pretty and professional, and the fit and length are perfect because it’s completely based on your own measurements! 

Closeup of the waist portion for a ruched mermaid skirt
Full length view of a ruched mermaid skirt
Side view of a ruched mermaid skirt

By the way, if you want to try other types of mermaid skirts and dresses with a similar silhouette, check out Sparkly Belly’s All-Access Membership.

All-access membership

In All-Access Membership, you can access all my courses, currently, I have 18 courses with over 30 designs available, and these 2 brand new designs will be added next month! You can create all of them to fit your unique measurements and budgets. If you’re curious, learn more here!

Fifi lace-up belly dance dress

This ruched mermaid skirt pattern is so versatile. You can make it with shiny lycra and decorate it with appliques and stones to make it stage-worthy or make it with a soft cotton knit for daily wear.

Enjoy your very own ruched mermaid skirt, and if you liked this video, you might also enjoy this beautiful 3-panel mermaid skirt with a slit

3 panel belly dance mermaid skirt

Again, if you’d like a free calculator to help you create the ruched mermaid skirt, click the link below!

Get the FREE calculator from here!

Thanks for watching, and keep sparkling!

P.S. Pin this image on your skirt board!

Like what you read? Want to make more costuming bits yourself?

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